Chronic Negress

Anyone who is at all familiar with Bonny Doon wines knows that Randall Grahm made his bones with red Rhones. There is probably a place in  biodynamism for bones but the Negress will admit she didn’t ask brand manager Barbara Smith when she tasted at the Santa Cruz tasting room. The 2009 Contra features a blend of Carignane, Grenache, Mourvedre and Syrah. Grahm calls it his rocks and raspberry wine, which is cute but doesn’t do justice to its balance and well-mannered tannins. The wine comes from Contra Costa grapes and the label features a picture of a couch found in the vineyard, which is something of a dumping ground for the locals. Unlike some throbbing fruit bombs around, the 09 Contra is harmonious like a house meeting in a commune full of nice people; not those unruly patchouli-drenched martinets that dominate group homes everywhere.

More fun than the law allows

Anyway, the 2007 Pousseur Syrah is made from grapes from Paso Robles on the cooler, western side across Templeton Gap. If you know Australian shiraz and like it, this is not your wine. There are elements of smoke, blueberry and bacon here and the wine has some bite to it. However, it’s more like a colt finding the confidence to run than those crazy, testosterone-fueled stallions from Down Under.

Next up was the 2006 Cigare Volante, which is probably the Dooniverse’s best known wine. When the 2008 is released, it will be the 25th vintage and festivities are planned. Grahm was inspired by the Chateauneuf-du-Pape blends. The 06 is 45 precent Syrah, 43 percent Grenache with some Mourvedre and Cinsault for grins. This wine spends a bit if time in French oak and features Grahm’s acknowledgement of the French local ordinance forbidding flying saucers for landing in the vineyards. Grahm uses screwcaps on all his wines and has been doing so since 2001. Smith said a recent tasting of the 1984 Volant was “eyepopping.” Grahm has been playing with oxygen and vessels, storing some wines upright, some in puncheons and some in five gallon glass carboys which are airtight. You can see the lees in the carboys and they are agitated every now and then.

The 2009 Clos de Gilroy does not feature garlic notes (you can smell Gilroy from 20 minutes away even when the Garlic Festival is not going on), but has some candied cherry and pepper from a blend of Grenache and Cinsault. The grapes come from the Alta Loma and Ca’ del Sol vineyards. This wine is cool and could be served with just about anything.

The 2008 Cunning also comes from Contra Costa head trained old vines in the Enea and Gonsalves vineyards. The wine blends 61 percent Carignane and 39 percent Mourvedre. There are few notes here but the Negress remembers red fruit with some raspberry and cherry. Right now the Cunning is listed for members of the Bonny Doon wine club. If you live somewhere direct shipping is legal, join up.

The 2007 Le Vol des Anges achieved botrytis and is 100 percent Rousanne. This dessert wine is apricot and honey-driven (the Negress has always wanted to see honey drive). This would be excellent with cheese and biscotti. These angels only fly when the conditions are right so this is worth seeking out.

The Negress did taste one wine that is only available by order and at the tasting room.  The 2009 Paso Robles Viognier is from the Chiquera vineyard is definitely age-worthy and is lighter and less floral than some Viogniers. It is crisp and has some light melon on the palate and some notes of floral blossoms. This one was great fun so I bought 2 bottles.