Archive for March, 2010

h1

Washington DC past and present: Anvil at the 9:30 Club

March 26, 2010

I was born in Washington DC and then followed my journalism career away from the city for close to 35 years. Eventually I’ll get to why I was at the 9:30 club to see Anvil, but the topic needs some context. When I left DC right after high school, most of my Mom’s siblings were alive, serially marrying and borrowing money from our family. The brothers Whitt died, one of a heroin overdose while I was at MIT, the other of liver cancer a few years later when I was in Jacksonville. Since returning, I’ve found out some apples haven’t fallen that far from the tree. Mom is the last of her line, in her pink Gerrichair, rail thin and closed off by dementia. Some of the stories of that time are locked away inside of her, so I’m slowly trying to reconstruct some of the things I missed.

However, when I did come home, the 9:30 was kind of my home away from home. My sister was a regular at dance nights there. I went for bands like Killing Joke, Guadalcanal Diary, the Replacements, Soul Asylum, the True Believers and such. The old 9:30 was right downtown at 930 F Street NW hence the name. The dressing room was over a broken sewer pipe, which meant it usually smelled worse than bands who were saving on motel money by sleeping in the van. It also proved the adage that hardly anything is more overrated than backstage.

A bit of my past

Courtesy Earl What I Saw 2.0 on Flickr A Little Tavern

I knew I would go back sometime though as I age I am less and less fond of stand-up venues thanks to a pair of knee replacements and other signs of decrepitude. The 9:30 is now located in something of a warehouse district near Howard University Hospital, which was built on the site of the old Griffith Stadium. There’s a parking lot you pay $20 to use, which is guarded by a large, amiable black man. After driving up on what appeared to be a “transaction” between a pair of SUVs and some gentleman in big jackets on a spring night, I parked and headed to the club. I had missed Misstallica, an all-female Metallica tribute band, but wandered around the club for a bit to get my bearings. I was beginning to write off my old town as fatally Southern when I saw they had Yuengling on draft. No beer for The Negress this night. I had choir at church the next day. I suspect I was the only person at the 9:30 that night who had that dilemma.

I ended up in the balcony, which the club has thoughtfully tiered for easy viewing. The floor is concrete so I knew I would only last as long as my knees did. Guitarist Steve “Lips” Kudlow began the show in the crowd on the floor playing impossibly speedy guitar sort of like Alvin Lee’s interminable set in “Woodstock.” However, I was smiling, which is not my usual reaction to speed metal. The crowd were snapping camera photos and supporting Kudlow as he noodled away. It was delightfully democratic.

Kudlow did  go onstage with bass player Glenn Five and drummer Robb Reiner and ripped through tunes like “Weed Assassins,” “This is 13″ and “Screw You.” Kudlow noted that the last time they had played DC was in 1989, and he could see the light shining off the bald spots in the audience. In the ongoing theme of democracy, he noted that he was also “rocking the Friar Tuck look.” I could not stop smiling. I did throw an obligatory devils’ horn metal roolz sign now and then, but this all made me happy. It’s as though the old traditions of gleeful bombast were still in place.

The new 9:30 is better than the old in terms of audience comfort and being smoke-free. As I returned to the suburbs like I used to after shows, I wondered how many people could spot the pitched green roofs of the old Little Taverns. Did they know about Dart Drugs and People’s? Did they know that neither Silver Spring nor Bethesda had downtowns when I was a kid? In short, stay tuned for more explanations.

h1

Andre Mack and Mouton Noir

March 25, 2010

The Negress ended up chatting with Andre Mack, former sommelier at Per Se, earlier thanks to Wine Spectator omitting him from a list of Thomas Keller alumni who had moved on to other careers (those posts are below this and my video debut for Wine Blogging Wednesday.  I somehow think Gary Vaynerchuk isn’t losing any sleep.)  The list was part of  a profile of Keller. I was perturbed Mack, who’s been running his Mouton Noir winery since 2004, wasn’t included, Wine Spectator got a bit defensive and I had a long e-mail exchange with the author, which didn’t lessen my  apprehension (why do people always haul out that MLK quote about content of character when discussions of race come up? News flash: We may have a black president but the Tea Party folks were yelling racial slurs at the black Congressmen and spitting on them before the passage of the health care bill. So we haven’t gotten to that part of Dr. King’s dream methinks.)

Andre Mack of Mouton Noir vineyards

Andre Mack is busy these days with a baby on the way and new wines

Anyway, Mack  and I chatted at length about this and a few other things. He felt he left Keller’s employ on good terms (“you can’t walk on water unless you’re willing to get out of the boat”) and noted that some of the people included in the Spectator list had been his cellar rats before they moved up the food chain at Keller Central. Also worth noting is that some of the alums listed are now serving his wines at their establishments. Mack, who was born in Trenton but mostly made his bones in Texas (according to his bio, Mack was awarded the prestigious title of Best Young Sommelier in America by the highly regarded Chaine des Rotisseurs), still lives in New York with his wife, Phoebe, and their 18-month old son Finnegan. There will be another addition to the family at the end of July. Mouton Noir’s 2006 vintage, Thief in Law, was 300 cases or so. The 2007 Montgomery Lane is available by the glass at a few pretty good Manhattan joints like Cru, Daniel, various BLT’s and Bar Americain. Mack said his 2008 release will probably be about 2,800 cases as demand for the wine is increasing. He hasn’t submitted his wines for review because “I’m not into the numbers game.” He’s been buying fruit from Pete Richmond at Vineyards 7 and 8 and doing the crush in Lompoc. He’s going to do two Pinot Noir bottlings using fruit from Oregon. These will be his first Pinot releases. On top of all this, he’s still consulting with restaurants and is looking at opening his own place in New York sometime down the road. One project Mack has talked about for years, a history of African Americans in wine, is on the back burner because he’s busy making his own history.

h1

Wine Blogging Wedesnday #67: Crios de Susana Balbo Rose Malbec 2008

March 24, 2010

In The Negress video blog debut, she fulfills this month’s Wine Blogging Wednesday challenge of finding a red wine for white wine drinkers to cherish. Thrill Whitey indeed!

h1

Wine Spectator gets off the sidelines

March 20, 2010

Many thanks to the folks at Wine Spectator for addressing the concerns I raised in my previous post. There are a few more observations I’d like to make about the Keller profile and the lack of inclusion of Andre Mack. I’ll keep it brief. It was not my intention to anger Mack ( I hear that I have, and that’s upsetting). When I lived in New York, Mack was very visible in general interest media and talked about the need for more wine professionals in the hospitality business as well as speaking out about customer perceptions of him as the sommelier at Per Se. I admit to feeling some race pride about Mack and did keep track of his endeavors when he left Per Se.  I think it’s also appropriate to say that my frame of mind when I read the Keller piece was definitely influenced by my attendance at the Symposium for Professional Wine Writers in Nap in February. There was a notable lack of people of color among the attendees as well as the panelists. It’s feel a bit lonely out here.

I should also state that I’ve eaten at the French Laundry and find Keller’s work as a chef admirable and worthy of attention. But reading this profile and not seeing one of his higher profile employees acknowledged in any way struck me as odd. I wondered why Mack was not part of the story.  He’s the sommelier who opened Per Se, not a line cook. I sent a message to Mack before I wrote the original  (he’s in one of the networking sites I use) and hoped he would respond. He didn’t (we have since made plans to talk), I wrote something (which, thanks to the speed of online work, I reworked a bit as I found out more information) and people responded.

I hope Andre Mack is well and I hope he understands what an inspiration he is to people of color who love wine. Maybe I am delusional to think that Wine Spectator would think about something like that when putting together a profile. Maybe my identification with Mack and his achievements will be perceived as tainted in some way. I hope not. He is one of the reasons you are reading this blog for better or worse.

Also, getting back to what I love, I’ve been exploring some of wines I picked up while I was in California for the Symposium. My favorite so far is the 2006 Pretense Petit Sirah from Solano County. The wine was cheerful with bright fruit and well-integrated tannins. I also adore the 2007 Frog’s Leap Zinfandel, which is rich and dense but without high alcohol content some California Zins are noted for (it listed at 13.4%). I also returned to a couple of old favorites, the 2007 Clos de la Siete and the 2006 Vina Zaco, a Tempranillo from Rioja. The Clos tasted almost dusty upon first swirl but settled into a comfortable balance of tannin and fruit.

h1

Andre Mack, Thomas Keller’s Invisible Man

March 18, 2010

There’s a cover story on notable chef Thomas Keller in the latest Wine Spectator.

For reasons that do not bear close scrutiny, I continue to read Wine Spectator against my better judgment.  It might be that it’s big and glossy and my subscription hasn’t run out yet. It might be the amusing tasting notes (likely not). Maybe it’s the impossibly fabulous photography of the good-looking winemakers looking rugged and competent against dramatic landscapes. Or maybe it’s because the Negress needs yet another pointed reminder as to why wine writing is rarely confused with journalism.

You see, at no point in this story about Keller’s rise to fame was Andre Mack mentioned. Mack was one of the few African American sommeliers to helm the wine program at a top level restaurant, starting at the French Laundry before being on hand when Per Se opened in Manhattan. I know Mack married Phoebe Damrosch since Damrosch wrote a book about her gig as a Per Se waiter who knew nothing about wine.  Mack was also quoted prominently in a New York Times story about the racial imbalance in most of the top Manhattan restaurants (some customers had trouble believing Mack was Per Se’s sommelier) that came about when Daniel Boulud was sued by a group of employees at Daniel.  He also was mentioned in a story about how restaurants are looking for people willing to be wine directors. Mack’s now making wine in California as Mouton Noir, which is pretty funny if you know your French.

Anyway, Mack’s name is nowhere to be found in this story. If Wine Spectator wished to commit an act of journalism, they could have mentioned that Mack was the sommelier when Per Se opened, which to this mind makes him more important than any of the 1,000 or so former and current employees of the Keller group that the writer was aware of. The Negress wasn’t asking for the story to be turned into a profile of Mack, but it seemed a glaring omission since Per Se’s opening was a major milestone on Keller’s timeline.

The Negress reached out to Mack before writing this. He has gotten in touch and we will talk soon. I also am willing to admit when I’ve gone off the rails into territory outside the scope of  my concern. Hence the removal of material irrelevant to the point.  Stay tuned.

If you look at the comments, you can see that the folks at Wine Spectator responded to this post and you can read what they have to say below.  That point is with so few people of color visible in high positions in the wine business, isn’t it incumbent to include them in stories like this to remind us that the field is open to all? I think the answer is obvious.

h1

A few more things about the Symposium for Professional Wine Writers

March 5, 2010

After recovering from last night’s Sauvignon Blanc Twitter tasting, the Negress has parked her sore self her at the computer to try to make some job alchemy happen. I’ve gotten a lot of suggestions and will follow through as long as the pain in my back doesn’t crush me like a bug. Also, there were a couple more things I wanted to say about the Symposium that I didn’t include in my original post. First of all, the attendees at the event are very pale for the most part. I would like to believe there are more African American, Hispanic and Asian wine writers and professionals than those show up here. This year there were three black attendees, one Hispanic (Chris Macias, if there were others, please let me know) and one Asian (a former sportswriter like myself). Please tell me that can’t be it. I’ve suggested in previous years that the Symposium use the journalism organizations such as NABJ, NAHJ and AAJA to reach out to more people of color. Also, last year we had one African American panelist (Joel Vincent) but the panels are also missing folks of different hues. I’m not sure why that is. Let’s hope a change is going to come.

Also, the last panel of the event was supposed to feature Gary Fisch of  Gary’s Wine and Marketplace, Martin Jansen op de Haar of Fleming’s Steakhouse, and Bill Cascio of Glazier’s Family of Companies, a wine distributor. The topic was stories of the coming year. Unfortunately, none of these gentlemen was available so we had Eric Asimov, Alder Yarrow and Heather John talking about some wine topics that could make the news this year (Greece, the South African wine most of us don’t get a chance to try). I have nothing against those folks. Heck, I follow all of them on Twitter. But  I would have liked to have heard from people whose businesses are on the line in trying economic times talk about how they’re coping and what’s of interest to them. I absolutely agree that wine writers should never be handmaidens to the industry in the way old time sportswriters were more co-conspirators than journalists. But I would have loved to have heard from these people or someone like them.  And I suspect I am not the only one.

h1

Sauvignon Blanc Twitter tasting tonight

March 4, 2010

I just wanted to alert my tens of followers that I will be participating in a Twitter tasting of Sauvignon Blanc tonight from 8 to 10 p.m. ET. I will be drinking a 2008 Casa Lapostolle SB with Trader Joe’s Veggie Samosas. The Twitter hashtag is #SauvBlanc. You can follow me at ClaudiaPerryInk. Come along for the pour, stay for the fun.
Wine in waiting for tonight's tasting. on Twitpic

Follow

Get every new post delivered to your Inbox.