Chronic Negress

Kerry Edwards looks like you might have gone to your high school. Her blond hair and freckles make her look younger than her 30 years. But her eponymous winery is all abuzz on wine blogs and in chat rooms everywhere. The winery has devoted its production to American grape varieties. Edwards’ first release (the label is featured here) was made from Concord grapes. No less an authority than Robert Parker ranked the wine with 97 points, calling it “bold and fruity with hints of jamminess that are pleasing and seductive.” Edwards plans future releases of Scuppernong and Catawba but said she felt compelled to launch her winery with the Concord release. “I just couldn’t imagine a more American grape than Concord,” Edwards said. “I know people were skeptical you could make wine associated with jelly and grape juice, but it was my mission to do this.”

Purple America

Edwards also felt that the wine’s deep purple was symbolic of the country’s divisions being healed. “I know there are two Americas — the red and the blue,” says Edwards, echoing the former Senator from North Carolina whom she has denied is her father. “Purple wine brings us all together.”

Because Edwards expected resistance from the wine industry, she took  the precaution of bringing the Negress to the winery blindfolded using a circuitous route so her location would remain secret. “You can’t be too careful,” Edwards says. “I come from a family who made moonshine. Given the inequity of the wine laws in this country, you must be cautious when you’re being defiant.”

Kerry Edwards 2007 Concord wine

New mode of distribution

Because of the convolutions of state laws regarding direct shipping from wineries, Edwards employs a novel distribution technique. ‘There may be two Americas, but both of them love ice cream,” Edwards says. “I’ve signed agreements with Mister Softee and Good Humor to bring the wine to the people. While the kids are buying ice cream, Mom and Dad can pick up a bottle of wine. With warm weather coming, we are very optimistic.”

She is also fulfilling some orders by having employees drive the wine to customers as their travel plans permit. “There’s no law against bringing wine to a friend as a favor,” Edwards says. “If that friend gives you a check for your trouble, it’s only fair.” Employees who accept gratuities are asked to donate 10 percent of the amount to the winery.

“Wine is like a religion to me, so having the employees tithe makes perfect sense,” Edwards said. “If you believe in something, you put your money where your beliefs are.”

Edwards’ Scuppernong and Catawba releases will be available on Feb. 29, 2010. Let the countdown begin.