Chronic Negress

Our jet down here from Buenos Aires had to stop for gas before arriving at this port town, which is surrounded by the snow-capped Andes. I’ll add pics later since this may be my last chance at a hot spot before boarding the Ocean Nova for 10 days in Antarctica with no Internet. I’m staying at the Hotel Los Nires, a lovely rustic chalet on a hill about a 15 peso ($5) cab ride from “downtown” Ushaia. As you would expect at the end of the world, there’s a casino. And an Argentinean navy base (Viva los Malvinas). I took a break from Malbec quest to sample the Ushaia beer Beagle, which was refreshing drunk with a meaty sandwich at about 11:30 p.m., which meant it was almost dusk. Besides, while dining in the Palermo section of Buenos Aires last night, I had a pair of fabulous Malbecs, a 2004 Cadus and 2006 Finca Las Moras reserva. Along with — what else? — two types of steak, sweetbreads, chorizo, dulce de leche crepes and flan. We finished up around 2 and my dinner companions and I retired. They were headed to the Mendoza wine region for New Year’s. I was headed here. I bid the Alvear Palace goodbye and headed to the Jorge Newbery domestic airport. The folks at the Alvear strongly suggested not to put anything valuable in my luggage, advice seconded by my friends from dinner. The same friends also noted street crime in Buenos Aires is experiencing an uptick and noted some neighborhoods where it could be fatal to be there after dark. I don’t remember the names but I didn’t go much out of the Recoleto except to dinner in Palermo so this was not a priority for me. I love Buenos Aires and hope to get back. In Ushaia there are hills and stairs everywhere so my limping needs to calm down. Tomorrow I will tour the National Park near town before boarding the Nova around 4 p.m. (1 p.m. or so Eastern). I have to be up and eating again at 7 a.m. before the tour. Since it’s 1 a.m. now, I’m out.